PLAKA. This jubilant spot can be a bit touristy, but it's all in good fun. Diners are treated to authentic folk dances and songs, which perfectly complement traditional Mediterranean cuisine. Stuffed grape leaves, fried eggplant, and lamb dishes are tasty choices, as is grilled octopus. The restaurant is located in the Plaka district at the foot of the Acropolis, which contributes to the old-world atmosphere. Smart-casual attire. Reservations essential.

PANGRATI. Contemporary continental cuisine is the order of the day at this sophisticated restaurant, located in a 19th-century townhouse. Possible entrees include artichoke casserole with duck confit and tender lamb with couscous, raisins, and cumin. Salmon and black ravioli with leeks and shrimp are also light, delicious dishes. Plus, bitter chocolate soufflé is the signature dessert. After dining, stroll to the courtyard for a cigar and a glass of port or cognac. Smart-casual to dressy attire. Reservations suggested.

PIRAEUS. Make reservations well in advance at Varoulko, which many folks claim serves the best seafood in Athens. The spot is perfect for adventurous eaters willing to let the chef present them with his daily special, based on what was caught fresh that morning. Possible appetizers include crab salad with mango, grapes, and leeks or mullet roe dressed with honey and served with cinnamon-spiced cauliflower puree. Delicious dinner entrees range from smoked eel to crayfish with sun-dried tomatoes and monkfish livers with soy sauce, honey, and balsamic vinegar. Kaidaifi, a shredded wheat pastry stuffed with sweet carrot filling, makes a perfect light dessert. Reservations essential. Smart-casual to dressy attire.