OMONIA SQUARE. Greek mezedes are similar to Spanish tapas ­ savory appetizers ordered in combination to make a meal. This spot has specialized in them since its inception in 1932 and is a favorite lunch and dinner haunt with local lawyers who work in the courts near Omonia Square. Sample grilled squid or hearty loukanika (sausages), along with patsanga (spicy meat wrapped in phyllo and served with cheese and tomatoes). Vegetarians enjoy fresh salads and authentic "giant beans." No reservations or credit cards accepted. Casual attire.

ACROPOLIS. Two blocks south of the Acropolis, this taverna is the perfect place to refuel after a day hiking through the ruins, or after a show at the nearby Odeon Theater. Diners with light appetites should try mezedes (appetizers) like fried zucchini with garlicky yogurt-cucumber sauce or rustic bread with fava bean puree. Heartier entrees include rabbit stew, veal with eggplant, and kid roasted with olive oil and oregano. Ask for a seat in the rooftop garden ­ views of the Acropolis are spectacular. Smart-casual. Reservations suggested.

MAVILI SQUARE. Look carefully for this upper-level restaurant ­ which occupies an old mansion around the corner from the American Embassy ­ because there isn't a sign to mark it. Even so, the alley on which it sits gets a fair amount of local traffic, given the place's popularity with Athenians. (Tourists often have too much trouble finding it.) Once inside, you'll applaud your perseverance before finishing appetizers. Authentic recipes from the Greek Isles are the specialty and include octopus stew, cabbage rolls, and pastitsio (a baked meat, lamb liver, and pasta casserole). Lamb in egg-lemon sauce and eggplant salad are also delicious. Smart-casual attire. Reservations accepted.