KOLONAKI. Unless you have a special license, it's illegal to take Greek antiquities out of the country. But, if you have your heart set on a Cycladic bowl or a gold cup from 2800 BC, why not buy a reproduction? View the museum's collections, and then venture to this shop. Prices are fair, and no one will ever have to know that your antique jewelry, ancient icon, decorative mosiac, priceless ceramic vessel, or valuable silver holloware is not the genuine article.

PLAKA. If you're searching for fantastic souvenirs, this shop sells only high-quality handicrafts, including embroidery, weavings, ceramics, jewelry, and wood carvings. Plan to stop by at lunchtime, and enjoy an unrivaled view of the Parthenon while you eat in the Center's cafe.

PLAKA. This organization exists to help rural and impoverished Greeks find meaningful work. Located on the outskirts of the old city, its shop sells authentic, hand-crafted items made either in the city or in the surrounding countryside. It's a great place to buy souvenirs, like copperware, exquisitely embroidered linens, fuzzy flokati rugs, and hand-thrown pottery.

KOLONAKI. For more than forty years this shop has been selling exquisitely crafted jewelry and glass items. Amulets and replicas of jewels worn by the Byzantine empress are among the more impressive pieces. Be sure to check out the blue glass lamps, vases, and candlesticks ­ they're said to protect their possessor against the evil eye.

SPATA. The Olympics are coming back, and Athens is ready. This shop is the first in a chain that will blanket the city by the summer of 2004. Opened by the Olympic Organizing Committee, it offers last-minute gifts for folks about to depart the country. All sorts of officially licensed gear is available, including collectible plates, track suits, pins, and other memorabilia suitable for adults and kids.