PIRAEUS. Make reservations well in advance at Varoulko, which many folks claim serves the best seafood in Athens. The spot is perfect for adventurous eaters willing to let the chef present them with his daily special, based on what was caught fresh that morning. Possible appetizers include crab salad with mango, grapes, and leeks or mullet roe dressed with honey and served with cinnamon-spiced cauliflower puree. Delicious dinner entrees range from smoked eel to crayfish with sun-dried tomatoes and monkfish livers with soy sauce, honey, and balsamic vinegar. Kaidaifi, a shredded wheat pastry stuffed with sweet carrot filling, makes a perfect light dessert. Reservations essential. Smart-casual to dressy attire.

Mon-Sat 8pm-midnight

Cash Only

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