GAZI. This spot, located in industrial Gazi, has attracted hipper-than-thou young Athenians since opening in 1999. A partitioned dining room gives the restaurant its name ­ "aristera-dexia" means "left-right" ­ and diners enter via a glass catwalk that looks down on one of Athens' most extensive wine cellars. The cuisine is incredible. The Santorini-born chef favors seafood and imparts traditional recipes with Japanese, Thai, and Italian flavors. Especially good are pheasant sausage with parsnips and madeira sauce, cheese croquettes in melon-mirin-chili sauce, squid in egg-lemon sauce, and crayfish with lavender and sweet wine. Desserts include champagne mousse with strawberries and green peppers and the "chocolate island." Stylish attire. Reservations essential.

Mon-Sat 9pm-1am

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